Saturday, February 20, 2010
realisation
Something Thailand has made me realise is that we're so extravagant in our Western ways. We waste paper and water and electricity and other resources to such unnecessary extremes. There is no such thing as 3-ply toilet paper in Thailand, nor are there many flushing toilets, much less showers. Why do we need 15 litres of water to flush away our excrement, or up to 40 litres to wash ourselves with? This type of excess is symptomatic of a type of so-called civilised behaviour that, I've come to realise, is superfluous to out existence as a species. Not that I'm going to give away all my worldly possessions, stop shaving my armpits and live the rest of my life in a hammock surviving off the land or anything, but I'm sure to make an effort to be kinder to the environment in future and be critical about the difference between 'need' and 'want'.
koh lipe
The island life is chilled to the max - or perhaps to the 'min', as it were. We have been the first customers at Lek's Boomerang, a rustic and charming shack that is a bar on Sunrise Beach the opened on the 14th of Feb. It's interesting to watch the place literally being built around us by a team of enterprising, creative and friendly locals. We were treated like a part of the family by Lek, Chai and Tong and it felt good to be a part of, what I believe, are great beginnings. We all ate dinner together the one night around one big table by candlelight...
No bungalows as of yet (although it's purely my own speculation that there will ever be) so the four of us shared a cheerful blue and orange tent. This was fun for 5 nights, but Vin and I splurged a little for a bungalow on the sixth. Princess = me. So the tent was less than comfortable to say the least, but the atmosphere made it all worth it and, at 75B p/n each, it was the ultimate in budget traveller's accommodation.
Having arrived on Koh Lipe at the onset of Chinese New year accommodation was virtually impossible to find. Mental note: chart the local holidays before making travel plans! The "Maldives of Thailand" (as Lipe is known) are an awfully popular tourist destination and prices were rather inflated. Luxury resorts are snapping up beachfront property at a rapid rate (right next door to us at Lek's loomed the laney "Idyllic Resort") which has resulted in overused water supplies, stressed sewerage systems and a lot of litter. Lipe used to be a part of the same national park that Taraotau belongs to but, as a result of the above-mentioned money hungry industry, it had prostituted itself to tourism and lost its marine reserve status.
What appears to have once been a teeming and abundant coral life population has been damaged, broken up and partially destroyed by long-tail boats and ignorant "pharangs" (Thai for white tourist) with no regard for the fact that what they're trampling over are not plants, but in fact living creatures. This made me feel really frustrated and sad and I think volunteering for coral reef restoration just jumped a few places on my list of jobs to consider.
Speaking of jobs, absolute inactivity has been our main activity, immobility our mode of transportation. Excluding an epic swim to a nearby island that Vin and I undertook, a few walks and some sandcastle building, we really didn't do anything on Lipe. Inactivity on such a grand scale is really beginning to get to me. I'm craving intellectual and creative stimulation and I think moving north towards Chaing Mai and finding some form of employment is high on my list at the moment.
No bungalows as of yet (although it's purely my own speculation that there will ever be) so the four of us shared a cheerful blue and orange tent. This was fun for 5 nights, but Vin and I splurged a little for a bungalow on the sixth. Princess = me. So the tent was less than comfortable to say the least, but the atmosphere made it all worth it and, at 75B p/n each, it was the ultimate in budget traveller's accommodation.
Having arrived on Koh Lipe at the onset of Chinese New year accommodation was virtually impossible to find. Mental note: chart the local holidays before making travel plans! The "Maldives of Thailand" (as Lipe is known) are an awfully popular tourist destination and prices were rather inflated. Luxury resorts are snapping up beachfront property at a rapid rate (right next door to us at Lek's loomed the laney "Idyllic Resort") which has resulted in overused water supplies, stressed sewerage systems and a lot of litter. Lipe used to be a part of the same national park that Taraotau belongs to but, as a result of the above-mentioned money hungry industry, it had prostituted itself to tourism and lost its marine reserve status.
What appears to have once been a teeming and abundant coral life population has been damaged, broken up and partially destroyed by long-tail boats and ignorant "pharangs" (Thai for white tourist) with no regard for the fact that what they're trampling over are not plants, but in fact living creatures. This made me feel really frustrated and sad and I think volunteering for coral reef restoration just jumped a few places on my list of jobs to consider.
Speaking of jobs, absolute inactivity has been our main activity, immobility our mode of transportation. Excluding an epic swim to a nearby island that Vin and I undertook, a few walks and some sandcastle building, we really didn't do anything on Lipe. Inactivity on such a grand scale is really beginning to get to me. I'm craving intellectual and creative stimulation and I think moving north towards Chaing Mai and finding some form of employment is high on my list at the moment.
tarotau - serenity exemplified
Quiet solitude in the isolation of Ao Molae - long stretch of sandy beach and the sea so smooth it may as well be a clear turquoise coloured swimming pool. Enjoyed the luxuries of a shower separate from the rest of the bathroom, a flushing toilet and a large white-linened bed, although we had to share it between the three (and then four when Bevan arrived) of us. Vin made the error one night of rolling over and snuggling up to Nick instead of me. Classic.
Bevan was lost to us for the first two nights due to the necessity of a visa run to Malaysia.
History lesson: Koh Tarotau is found in the Andaman sea, near the border to Malaysia. In 1938, Tarotau became an exile island for common prisoners and high-profile political prisoners at Talo Wao and Talo Udang prisons respectively. Fear of sharks and saltwater crocodiles in the surrounding waters ensured that few escaped. During WWII, supplies to the island were cut short and the desperate prisoners and prison guards teamed up and looted a passing ship. This proved to be such a lucrative ventures that the group became pirates - the most feared of the Andaman sea! In 1974 Tarotau and the 51 surrounding islands were declared a national park.
Where we stayed there was one tiny rustic restaurant which was closed between 2pm and 6pm. Electricity is out of order during the day as well and is really sporadic otherwise. We had lights one night we were there. This proved beneficial, though, for viewing the stars and the incredible phosphorescence in the sea at night, which provided us all with childlike delight. After-dinner skinny dipping became routine, resulting in shrieks of laughter and magical light shows put on for one another. An incredible phenomenon I'll never forget.
Nightswimming in the phosphorent sea,
giggling like children,
Nick, Vincent and me.
Swirling limbs surrounded
by bright points of light,
unable to grasp them
before they fade from our sight.
Never before have we seen such a luminous night.
The mosquito populations were drastically reduced in Taraotau when compared to Tonsai. Mosquitoes were replaced however by a a number of other strange insects that bite and a troupe of particularly cheeky monkeys. The former resulted in a 4cm x 4cm lump on my inner thigh which progressed from burning pain, to stinging pain to inconceivable itching and has now resulted in a purplish off-colour spot. The latter was lead by one mischievous looking male with big sad eyes, which I imagine allowed his to con tourists into feeding him quite often.
Had the feeling that I was existing within a dream or a movie, still struggling a bit to find the edges of normality and realism. I'm anticipating a rather dramatic crash-landing back to earth at some stage as money seems to be flowing evermore freely, and, although I wish it would, it's not going to last forever...
Bevan was lost to us for the first two nights due to the necessity of a visa run to Malaysia.
History lesson: Koh Tarotau is found in the Andaman sea, near the border to Malaysia. In 1938, Tarotau became an exile island for common prisoners and high-profile political prisoners at Talo Wao and Talo Udang prisons respectively. Fear of sharks and saltwater crocodiles in the surrounding waters ensured that few escaped. During WWII, supplies to the island were cut short and the desperate prisoners and prison guards teamed up and looted a passing ship. This proved to be such a lucrative ventures that the group became pirates - the most feared of the Andaman sea! In 1974 Tarotau and the 51 surrounding islands were declared a national park.
Where we stayed there was one tiny rustic restaurant which was closed between 2pm and 6pm. Electricity is out of order during the day as well and is really sporadic otherwise. We had lights one night we were there. This proved beneficial, though, for viewing the stars and the incredible phosphorescence in the sea at night, which provided us all with childlike delight. After-dinner skinny dipping became routine, resulting in shrieks of laughter and magical light shows put on for one another. An incredible phenomenon I'll never forget.
Nightswimming in the phosphorent sea,
giggling like children,
Nick, Vincent and me.
Swirling limbs surrounded
by bright points of light,
unable to grasp them
before they fade from our sight.
Never before have we seen such a luminous night.
The mosquito populations were drastically reduced in Taraotau when compared to Tonsai. Mosquitoes were replaced however by a a number of other strange insects that bite and a troupe of particularly cheeky monkeys. The former resulted in a 4cm x 4cm lump on my inner thigh which progressed from burning pain, to stinging pain to inconceivable itching and has now resulted in a purplish off-colour spot. The latter was lead by one mischievous looking male with big sad eyes, which I imagine allowed his to con tourists into feeding him quite often.
Had the feeling that I was existing within a dream or a movie, still struggling a bit to find the edges of normality and realism. I'm anticipating a rather dramatic crash-landing back to earth at some stage as money seems to be flowing evermore freely, and, although I wish it would, it's not going to last forever...
koh mak to bangkok to krabi to tonsai
Everywhere is anywhere under the cover of darkness. With only a dull wedge of moon in the sky to light it almost any landscape can resemble that of home. Whilst on the bus to Krabi, I was overwhelmed by a wave of homesickness which stirred within me feelings of nostalgia and pessimistic musings with regard to freedom.
"Free" is defined by my particularly useeless, though amusing, Collins COBUILD English Dict. as such:
(adj.)1. if something is free you can ahve it without paying for it
2. something that is free is not controlled/limited
3. someone who is free is no longer a prisoner
(verb)1. if you free someone/thing that is trapped, you release them
This particularly useless dictionary neglects to mention more bohemian ideas regarding freedom, stating only that if you have freedom to do something, you are allowed to do it. What of being free from conformity and responsibility and the capitalist system? What of freedom of movement and true happiness resulting from a freedom of self? I feel somewhat disillusioned by 'freedom' as such. Perhaps it as naieve of me to expect a certain kind of freedom, involving an expansion of the mind and a new outlook with regard to my sense of self and my interaction with the world. I still feel very much confined within the limitations of my mind and body, not to mention the limits of my capital. The world is turning out to be an expensive place - financially as well as physically and emotionally.
Spent 7 days in Tonsai, which was wonderful. Had some good parties, met some cool people. Did some kayaking and some snorkelling, a lot of swimming in the bath-temperature water and otherwise general lazing about. Ate well and was in good company. Explorewd that little patch of paradise thouroughly and did no rock-climbing. Tonsai is reknowned for its exquitsite rock formations and sheer cliffs and, as a result, there were a lot of buff-looking humand walking around who made me feel very soft and lazy.
"Free" is defined by my particularly useeless, though amusing, Collins COBUILD English Dict. as such:
(adj.)1. if something is free you can ahve it without paying for it
2. something that is free is not controlled/limited
3. someone who is free is no longer a prisoner
(verb)1. if you free someone/thing that is trapped, you release them
This particularly useless dictionary neglects to mention more bohemian ideas regarding freedom, stating only that if you have freedom to do something, you are allowed to do it. What of being free from conformity and responsibility and the capitalist system? What of freedom of movement and true happiness resulting from a freedom of self? I feel somewhat disillusioned by 'freedom' as such. Perhaps it as naieve of me to expect a certain kind of freedom, involving an expansion of the mind and a new outlook with regard to my sense of self and my interaction with the world. I still feel very much confined within the limitations of my mind and body, not to mention the limits of my capital. The world is turning out to be an expensive place - financially as well as physically and emotionally.
Spent 7 days in Tonsai, which was wonderful. Had some good parties, met some cool people. Did some kayaking and some snorkelling, a lot of swimming in the bath-temperature water and otherwise general lazing about. Ate well and was in good company. Explorewd that little patch of paradise thouroughly and did no rock-climbing. Tonsai is reknowned for its exquitsite rock formations and sheer cliffs and, as a result, there were a lot of buff-looking humand walking around who made me feel very soft and lazy.
Friday, February 5, 2010
koh mak
Pure tropical paradise. For less than R50 p.n. each we have been residing in beach frot huts with matresses on the floor, billowing mosquito nets and a toilet. Luxury. Spent a night at Island Huts, which is as tranquil as the name suggests. One steps directly from the small palm-thatched wodden shack onto the beach. Although this proved itself to be highly conducive for sandy bedsheets, it did wonders for my inner wellbeing. The whole day that we were there was spent in contemplative silence, reading books whilst listening to the soft lapping of the sea on the shore, which was no more than 2 or 3 metres away.
The water is crystal clear and the colour of turquoise. It's also amazingly warm! Warmer than I'd choose to have a shower.
Went snorkeling for the first time the other day in the waters surrounding one of the nearby islands. It was such a surreal experience to be surrounded by noisy tourists, but then as soon as my head was below the water, I was completely lost in another world. To dive down and swim amongst the incredibley colourful fish and giant coral formations was to be immersed in a world so silent and beautiful that, at times, I felt that I might be in a dream.
Was a pity to leave Koh Mak and return to the bustle and stink of Bangkok, but we have aquired a number of new travel buddies. Nick arrived on Wednesday with a German named Tim, and we met up with Bevan as well. Visted the Grand Palace, which was quite spectacular, but so so hot! We were required to cover up, meaning a heavy cotton shirt and long skirt for me. It was probably about 32 degrees! At least. Proceded to jump straight onto a bus to Krabi, and then on to Tonsai, where we are now. Very long, sweaty trip. 15hrs on the bus and about an hour on a longtail boat. But it is beautiful here. Some of the famous 'floating mountains' are here. Very dramatic landscape, and the sea is even warmer! Have also met a guy from Oregon, USA, named Tristan. Seems cool enough. Brings our ravelling party total to 6, me being the only girl. Love, love, love to all back home! x
The water is crystal clear and the colour of turquoise. It's also amazingly warm! Warmer than I'd choose to have a shower.
Went snorkeling for the first time the other day in the waters surrounding one of the nearby islands. It was such a surreal experience to be surrounded by noisy tourists, but then as soon as my head was below the water, I was completely lost in another world. To dive down and swim amongst the incredibley colourful fish and giant coral formations was to be immersed in a world so silent and beautiful that, at times, I felt that I might be in a dream.
Was a pity to leave Koh Mak and return to the bustle and stink of Bangkok, but we have aquired a number of new travel buddies. Nick arrived on Wednesday with a German named Tim, and we met up with Bevan as well. Visted the Grand Palace, which was quite spectacular, but so so hot! We were required to cover up, meaning a heavy cotton shirt and long skirt for me. It was probably about 32 degrees! At least. Proceded to jump straight onto a bus to Krabi, and then on to Tonsai, where we are now. Very long, sweaty trip. 15hrs on the bus and about an hour on a longtail boat. But it is beautiful here. Some of the famous 'floating mountains' are here. Very dramatic landscape, and the sea is even warmer! Have also met a guy from Oregon, USA, named Tristan. Seems cool enough. Brings our ravelling party total to 6, me being the only girl. Love, love, love to all back home! x
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
the amazing land of thai
Bangkok. One word, Overwhelming. A cultural melting pot and a beautiful blend of old and new/modern and traditional. Was almost brought to tears whilst watching two Thai cowboys sing renditions of Johnny Cash and Bob Dylan at a small bar, located on the street parallel to Khaosan Rd. where we're staying. Might have had something to do with the beers and famous "bucket" (half-jack of rice rum, Thai redbull and Coke), but the sentiment was genuine - I really fucking love Thailand so far!
Khaosan Rd. is mental. A crazy hive of activity. Good times city that never sleeps. Have been offered 3 ping-pong shows already, in one evening! Don't worry Bevan, we'll wait for you. Whole street packed with bars and restaurants and street vendors and tattoo parlours and silver jewellery shops and hotels eyc. etc. etc... It is at a hotel named Dang Derm that me and Vincent have been residing. For 1100bht (equivalent of R275) for the both of us, including breakfast, we are staying in a luxurious room with a rare and coveted en suite. Amazing.
Things are insanely cheap here, but the extravagance needs to be curbed! Have decided to toss quite a lot of my things, especially toiletries and shoes. Although I thought I had brought so little with me, it still turns out I have too much. As Vin says, I need to learn how to "rough it"... goodbye make-up! On that note, I am saying a small prayer of thanks for every toilet I have used to far. Goodbye Bangkok, goodbye tourist mecca, goodbye porcelain throne... you will be missed!
Have seen my first ladyboy as well. I repeat - I fucking LOVE Thailand so far!
Some words I've learnt:
Egypt:
* ahlan - hello
* shokraan - thank you
* mashy - okay
Thailand:
* sa wah di ka - hello (feminine)
* sa badi mai - how are you?
* sa badi - fine
* mai pen rai - no problem/worries
* ka koon ka - thank you (fem.)
Khaosan Rd. is mental. A crazy hive of activity. Good times city that never sleeps. Have been offered 3 ping-pong shows already, in one evening! Don't worry Bevan, we'll wait for you. Whole street packed with bars and restaurants and street vendors and tattoo parlours and silver jewellery shops and hotels eyc. etc. etc... It is at a hotel named Dang Derm that me and Vincent have been residing. For 1100bht (equivalent of R275) for the both of us, including breakfast, we are staying in a luxurious room with a rare and coveted en suite. Amazing.
Things are insanely cheap here, but the extravagance needs to be curbed! Have decided to toss quite a lot of my things, especially toiletries and shoes. Although I thought I had brought so little with me, it still turns out I have too much. As Vin says, I need to learn how to "rough it"... goodbye make-up! On that note, I am saying a small prayer of thanks for every toilet I have used to far. Goodbye Bangkok, goodbye tourist mecca, goodbye porcelain throne... you will be missed!
Have seen my first ladyboy as well. I repeat - I fucking LOVE Thailand so far!
Some words I've learnt:
Egypt:
* ahlan - hello
* shokraan - thank you
* mashy - okay
Thailand:
* sa wah di ka - hello (feminine)
* sa badi mai - how are you?
* sa badi - fine
* mai pen rai - no problem/worries
* ka koon ka - thank you (fem.)
...and so it begins
Has been a mad few days! Left Johannesburg for Cairo on Saturday night. First international flight - long. Egypt Air's flight attendants are all male, with an unusual manner of service - very entertaining though! Juice spilt on a Chinese passenger resulted in laughter (from both Vincent & I & the attendant) and very little sympathy. All I can say, is be thankful it wasn't coffee!
Have discovered that international travel involves a LOT of waiting.
Cairo: ancient, magnificent. The most amazing place I've ever seen (not to discredit Egypt, but I have the feeling I'll be saying this quite often over the course of this year). Ended up in quite a swanky hotel for the day, which was included in our ticket price. Had a guided tour through the city, courtesy of our cab driver, Muhammed, on our way to visit the Giza pyrimads, which were, quite simply put, absolutely mindblowing. Seeing the structures for the first time, rising above the crumbling skyline of Cairo was quite an emotional experience. After having seen so many images of the pyramids throughout my life, it was rather overwhelming toacknowledge that the pyramids actually exist.
A "bollywood star" (or so Vincent and I chose to dub him), Zha, and his girlfriend, Zain, accompanied us on our epic voyage. Group photography and friendly banter followed. Upon arrival we were harangued by camel and horse owners alike with promises of rides into the desert from where one might view all nine pyramids and the Sphinx in all their glory. Granted, it may have been an awesome photo opportunity, but we were much more keen to walk it. The heckling was incessant! Every guy we walked past wanted to offer us the same ride or sell us souvenirs, and were not prepared to be put down lightly. Vincent met a "friendly" fellow who kindly offered to take our picture, bestowing us with props which were proposed to be presents. Turns out it almost cost us 200 Egyptian pounds (which he sneakily managed to swipe from us) - little skelem!
All in all, absolutely epic day. Well worth every penny. Thanks Egypt, Muhammed, Vincent, Zha and Zain xxx
Have discovered that international travel involves a LOT of waiting.
Cairo: ancient, magnificent. The most amazing place I've ever seen (not to discredit Egypt, but I have the feeling I'll be saying this quite often over the course of this year). Ended up in quite a swanky hotel for the day, which was included in our ticket price. Had a guided tour through the city, courtesy of our cab driver, Muhammed, on our way to visit the Giza pyrimads, which were, quite simply put, absolutely mindblowing. Seeing the structures for the first time, rising above the crumbling skyline of Cairo was quite an emotional experience. After having seen so many images of the pyramids throughout my life, it was rather overwhelming toacknowledge that the pyramids actually exist.
A "bollywood star" (or so Vincent and I chose to dub him), Zha, and his girlfriend, Zain, accompanied us on our epic voyage. Group photography and friendly banter followed. Upon arrival we were harangued by camel and horse owners alike with promises of rides into the desert from where one might view all nine pyramids and the Sphinx in all their glory. Granted, it may have been an awesome photo opportunity, but we were much more keen to walk it. The heckling was incessant! Every guy we walked past wanted to offer us the same ride or sell us souvenirs, and were not prepared to be put down lightly. Vincent met a "friendly" fellow who kindly offered to take our picture, bestowing us with props which were proposed to be presents. Turns out it almost cost us 200 Egyptian pounds (which he sneakily managed to swipe from us) - little skelem!
All in all, absolutely epic day. Well worth every penny. Thanks Egypt, Muhammed, Vincent, Zha and Zain xxx
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